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Hallowell In The Media

Copyright Boston Herald Library Nov 10, 2002
Reprinted with permission of the Boston Herald.

SPECIAL TO THE HERALD

HALLOWELL, Maine - If you're heading up the Maine Turnpike for some skiing, check out this hidden gem of a town that's right off the highway a few miles south of Augusta.

A tiny cultural oasis awaits. The highlight of Hallowell is the mile-long unassuming stretch of Water Street, a row of weathered brick buildings that house a variety of antique shops, funky specialty stores and homey pubs.

You won't find a Starbucks or a Gap in Hallowell, and each store has its own personality, whether it be the handcrafted whimsical home decorations at Antics (89 Water St.), made by owner Tracie Carolin, or sheet music and books at Corner Music & Clock Shop (2 Park St.).

The town's population, just around 2,500, makes it one of Maine's smallest cities. But Mainards thirsting for some culture and down- home restaurant food come here year-round. Even when winter settles in and things close in the neighboring towns, there's always something going on in Hallowell.

"We say that Hallowell is the artsy, cultural center of central Maine," said Justin Holmes, 29, a local and bartender at The Liberal Cup (115 Water St.).

About 40 musicians live in town, and not many small New England towns can boast being home to 25 bands. You can get a feel for the musical talent during "Old Hallowell Day," an annual event held in July. But you also can enjoy tunes other times of year at The Wharf Tavern (130-134 Water St.), which has live music nightly, in addition to Sunday and Friday afternoons. There's no cover charge.

The Liberal Cup also offers live music, as does Slates Restaurant & Bakery (169 Water St.) and the Higher Grounds Coffeehouse and Tavern (119 Water St.).

Most bars close at 1 a.m., so Hallowell is not exactly a sleepy little town.

Any time of year, it's a nice, relaxing walk along the picturesque Water Street, nestled along the Kennebec River, and collectors will have a heyday in the shops. Coin collectors will want to stop by China Lake Coins, Currency & Antiques (200 Water St.). Dukenfields Antiques (107 Water St.) carries a full line of British toy soldiers as well as die-cast cars, planes and trains.

If you like 18th, 19th and 20th century American and British glass and ceramics and Japanese pottery and porcelain, stop by Josiah Smith Antiques (181 Water St.).

If all that shopping leaves you famished, look back to the micro- brewed beer at The Liberal Cup, a cozy pub with exposed beams, brick walls and a long gleaming bar, as well as its own brewery. Taste a bittersweet Alewife Ale or Tarbox cream stout. Even better, have the sampler paddle ($4) featuring a taste of all of the pub's brews.

Accompany the beer with the drunken mussels, steamed in the pub's own brew, of course, with herbs, tomatoes and garlic ($6.25). The pub also features such traditional pub dishes as shepherd's pie.

Boynton's Market, 157 Water St., has a deli known for its famous homemade mincemeat. Staff at Granite City Grinders (272 Water St.), a deli/sandwich shop, prepare everything on-site, including the meat products. If you like lobster stew, swing by Hattie's Chowder House, (103 Water St.).

Hallowell, settled in 1771, once served as a principal shipping port (the Kennebec flows to the Atlantic). The town's most notable industries were shipbuilding and granite. The state capitol building in Augusta was built of Hallowell granite.

These days it's an up-and-coming tourist destination, but maintains a bohemian, mellow atmosphere.

For more information, call the Kennebec Valley Chamber of Commerce at 207-623-4559 or go to www.hallowell.org.